Saturday, 8 February 2014

10 things I love about Greece



If you know me in real life, you know, the one where we don't sit in front of our laptops; if you have ever had a chat with me over a glass of wine, you are very likely to have listened to me rant about how living in Greece is rather challenging, sometimes downright infuriating. If you are friends with me on Facebook you will have no doubt read countless posts where I complain about the public smoking, the crazy driving and any dealings with the state sector (to name but a few, I promised myself that I would keep this post positive)!

And yet, five years after we moved to Greece, we are still here. Something has kept us and is keeping us here. D, my husband, calls it Stockholm syndrome (half the time, at least, I think he is joking). But I have really been thinking lately about all the wonderful things Greece has to offer. 

I got to five really easily, with hardly any thought. From five to seven required some reminiscing of our first few weeks in Greece, straight after we moved here from London in July 2008. I then squeezed the eighth point out with considerable effort. But the last two points? Those were tough! In fact they were so difficult, I considered calling the post '8 things I love about Greece'. Not quite the same ring, right? 

So I asked D who obliged quickly and effortlessly. And, of course, the last two were the things that are so ubiquitous, so "everyday" that we forget about them, completely take them for granted. 

So, here they are, in part as an exercise in gratitude, and in no particular order, the ten things I love about Greece: 

1. The weather 
As weather goes, this place does quite well. When we first moved here from London we spent every morning being surprised by the fact that the sun was shining and the sky was blue. Every morning!! That's because we moved here in July, which is right in the middle of the five months of no rain we get every year! It is wonderful (unless you are a gardener...)! And although there are four distinct season, including the occasional snow day in winter, spring and autumn showers and heat waves in summer; the weather is incredibly predictable and usually good. The best thing about it: it rarely stays bad for longer than 48 hours! 

2. Nature




Coming from England, again, we were amazed at the diversity of scenery here in Greece. Athens is surrounded by three mountains (each higher than the highest mountain in England). This provides a dramatic backdrop for the city, for sure. We live on one of these mountains (on its "backside", ie not the side facing the city, but looking down towards the sea). They are the perfect playground for any outdoor activities - from hiking, to mountain running and mountain biking, they are ideal. Going a bit further afield, we have been stunned by the blue-green waters, the lakes, the forests, the dramatic coastlines and everything in between that we have encountered. Granted, none of if is looked after very well (but I will not go into this - this is a gratitude post) but on the plus side, the Greeks are not very outdoorsy people, so we usually get most it all to ourselves! 




3. The food
Well, it's fresh, seasonal and usually grown within 100 km of where we live. There isn't the great variety we used to get at Tesco, but it tastes and smells a hundred times better. Fresh fruit and vegetables are also much cheaper. We might only get strawberries for two weeks a year, grapes only come in early autumn and watermelon is strictly a summer fruit, but this cyclical nature of what is available really makes you appreciate the changing of the seasons. 
As for eating out, food is usually made of the above ingredients, simply prepared and tastes delicious! Yum!



4. How safe it is
Greece has changed a lot since the beginning of the crisis. When we moved here in 2008 we didn't think twice about sleeping with our windows open during the night. Although crime stats have gone up, Greece is still one of the safest countries in Europe. In most places around Athens you can walk around safely well into the night. 

5. How child-friendly it is
Greece seems to be a paradise for small kids and their parents. You can take your kids pretty much anywhere and they will be treated like kings. Beware if you don't like strangers touching or cuddling your kids, giving them sweets and generally spoiling them - such behaviours are widely acceptable here. Waiters will fuss over your little ones and it seems that complaints about children in "adult" places, like restaurants are few and far between. In Greece the child is king! (For better or worse...) We are certainly looking forward to finding out for ourselves...

6. How friendly and helpful people can be
Note the careful phrasing of the above. Greek people can be amongst the most hospitable and friendly in the world. They will open their house and heart and will welcome you in with open arms. Sometimes. But when it does happen, it is beautfiul and you know that you have made friends for life. 

7. The light
Well, I am not an artist, certainly not a photographer, but there is something magical about the light in Greece. It is soft and diffused in winter, stark and blinding in summer, and it changes constantly. There is nothing I love more than the softening of the brightness, as day turns to night in the summer. 

8. The smells
Sounds dodgy... It isn't. I simply love the intensity of all the smells in this place. I love the smell of thyme when I got running on the mountain - my running shoes smell for hours after the end of each run. I love the smell of lavender rising up from our garden, the delicate aroma of orange blossom, the fragrance of rocket (yes, the salad green!) while I walk my dogs. The sea smells for miles, a salty, vibrant kind of smell, the rain smells well before it arrives and the pine trees fill our summer nights. It simply seems that everything smells more real here, more intense! 

9. The history


It is everywhere you go. Down in Athens you will see the library of Hadrian, on the metro you will look at ancient housing and roads. Up the mountain you will bump into a byzantine church, built on (and something with) the ruins of an ancient temple. By the beach you will find the temple of Poseidon. You will run past the tomb of the Athenians in Marathon, when you do the marathon, and you will (hopefully) finish in the Panathenaic stadium. It is everywhere and it is mesmerising!



And finally... 10. The people
I might be biased in this. In fact, I am most likely very biased. But I have met some amazing people while living here. Talented, creative, resilient. You need to be all of the above in order to succeed in Greece. But there are people, even today, in the current economic climate, who manage to keep creating, succeeding, taking risks!


P.S. D suggested I included "the unpredictability of things" in my list. I simply couldn't. I might be learning to live with it, I might even be learning to see the funny side of it and be able to (sometimes) look at life here as an adventure, but I simply cannot bring myself to love the unpredictability of things. I am just not built that way... 





Sunday, 2 February 2014

The wait




We have been in a weird period of limbo for a very long time. We have been waiting for our lives to change for a very long time. I cannot remember the last time we could make plans about an upcoming break or a holiday without having to think about children. 

The funny thing (funny strange, not humourous at all) is that we don't have any children. Not legally or physically, at least. We have been in the process of trying to start our family for the last five and bit years, but we are still, for all intents and purposes a childless couple. And so it is ironic, very much so, that our life has been dominated by children to this extent. 

Since last October, five very long months ago, D and I have known who our children will be. In fact, we spent a week with them in late October. Not the most common path to parenthood, but it certainly feels like a wonderful one. 

We are waiting to adopt two kiddos from Ethiopia. It feels like, in some ways, we have been waiting all our lives. In reality though, it has been since October. Complications in-country, closed regional ministry offices, a heart-stopping announcement about the end of intercountry adoption in Ethiopia and some changes in procedure later, we might be getting close. 

What has got to me, what has made me really nervous in this whole process (personal anxiety issues aside) is the uncertainty of it all. The fact that, until I have the children in my arms and the plane doors are closed, until that very moment (oh, and how I dream of that moment!), until then we cannot be certain that it will all go through. 

It is not unlike a high-risk pregnancy, I guess. You cannot relax and enjoy it, as many people have suggested. I cannot think of other things, or enjoy my last few child-free months, because at the end of the day there are no guarantees. The process is fraught with uncertainty. (And it does not help, that I am, by nature, fraught with anxiety...)

But we are waiting. And we have good days and bad days. Anyone who has been through this process knows what a roller coaster it is. How attached you become to your phone. How one email can make your day. How a piece of news can ruin your Christmas. 

We are still in that wait. One day closer to bringing our kiddos to their new home. One day closer to becoming a family. We hope. We wait...



Saturday, 1 February 2014

Adjusting the Sails





D and I have now been in Greece for the last five years. In some ways they have flown by, in others they have been a slow motion march to today. The most extraordinary thing is that if you had told me, ten years ago that this would be the life I would be living in 2014 I would not have believed you. Heck, I would have questioned your predictive skills for sure. And maybe even my future sanity. 


D and I met close to eight years ago in Switzerland. We both lived in London when we fell in love. We both had well-paying jobs and a certain amount of flexibility within them. We had plenty of disposable income, which we spent mostly travelling and participating in races. In fact we spent most of our time and money training for, travelling to and talking about triathlon races. It gave our life meaning! We had friends who were the same and we were happy with our life like that - it was the small, protected world of our London life. 

Fast-forward to today and almost everything has changed. We live in Greece, in a house on a mountain, a drivable distance from the centre of Athens. We are both full-time teachers (although that might soon change) at a local international primary school. We have a lot less time to train and a lot less money to travel and race. We have acquired four dogs, a passion for the mountain, some friends, but we have mostly acquired a different view of life. 

We have taken huge risks in the process, made some difficult choices, lived through some truly tough times and it feels like we are completely different people now. Wiser? Not sure. Just different. 

The biggest lesson we have learnt might be this: life is full of changes. We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails!

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